John Lowery Brown's account of his journey from Grand Saline to California / Native American; Cherokee

[Flyleaf] JOURNAL KEPT BY J. L. BROWN OF THE CHEROKEE NATION ROUTE FROM GRAND SALINE (C.N.) TO CALIFORNIA JUNE 3d, 1850

[Page 1] 20 April Left Mrs Packs & came to Mrs Gilbreaths— 12 miles* 21 " Lay by all day— 22 " Brought the waggon to Lew is Meltons. Staid at Grandfathers— 10 miles 23 " Came on by to Tahlequah and on to Mothers— 1 mile 24 " Lay by all day 25 " Started with the waggon and left it & came on to Grand River— 25 miles [ ? ] ⁶ 26 " the waggon came on with Adairs. I staid at Clarks [word illegible, faded] 27 " Crossed the waggon [corner Journal worn, writing faded]

Page 1 Annotation ⁶ This crossing was near the noted salt spring, the Grand Saline, located about a mile south of the present town of Salina, in Mayes County. Washington Irving, during his visit to Oklahoma in 1832, mentioned this crossing in his journal, describing the scene— “a beautiful, clear river— group of Indian nymphs half-naked on banks.” He also described Colonel Auguste P. Chouteau’s residence near the Grand Saline. (The Irving Journals, published by the Bibliophile Society, Boston, 1919. V ol. I l l , p. 139.) Dr. Grant Foreman has called attention to the fact that this crossing on Grand River became such an important rendezvous or emigrants to California and a flourishing trading point of which Lewis Ross’s store was the principal establishment, that a postoffice was established there on June 11, 1849. It was called Grand Saline, Robert D. Ross being appointed the first postmaster.

[Page 2] April 28 Left Grand River in company with T. F. Taylors⁷ & D. J. Bells⁸ waggons. Camped on the first 15 miles prong of Pryors creek, which shall be called— Camp 1st⁹ April 29 Camp 2. Camped on Salt creek near Mrs. Coodeys 18 miles " 30 Crossed Verdigrice River and camped on the west 8 miles Bank (Camp 3d )— ¹⁰ May 1st Lay by all day— " 2 Traveled 15 miles. 10 waggons alltogather. camped on a small creek (camp 4 )¹¹ " 3d Traveled 8 miles. 12 waggons [? ] alltogather (Camp 5th " 4th Travelled 15 miles [corner Journal worn] camped in two hollows [corner Journal worn] the gap of the [corner Journal worn]

Page 2 Annotations ⁷ Thomas Fox Taylor, born in East Tennessee, in 1818, was the eldest son of Richard and Ellen McDaniel Taylor. Richard Taylor, in his turn eldest son o f Charles Fox and Jennie Walker Taylor, was a prominent leader among his people, serving as assistant chief of the Cherokee Nation with John Ross from 1851-55. According to a tradition in the family, Charles Fox Taylor was the second son of an English noble by the name of Fox and his wife, Jennie Taylor, a Scotch woman. The parents separated, the eldest son remaining with the father and being vested, by right of primogeniture, with the Fox estate. The second son remained with his mother and was known as Charles Fox Taylor. The mother married a second time, immigrated to America, bringing Charles with her, and settled near the Cherokee Nation East. Charles made friends among the Cherokee people and married Jennie Walker, a granddaughter of Ghigau or Beloved Woman of the Cherokees. The Ghigau (also known by the English name of Nancy Ward ) was conferred great power by the Cherokee Council for her bravery in a battle with the Creeks. She has been described as a woman “of queenly and commanding presence and manners” her house being “furnished in a style suitable to her high dignity.” Thomas Fox Taylor attended the mission schools in his nation and the Nashville and Knoxville colleges of Tennessee. He became well known as a politician in the Cherokee Nation even as a young man, and was especially noted as an orator, fluent in both the English and the Cherokee. His first public office was that of clerk and interpreter of the Cherokee Council. Later when elected member of the Cherokee National Committee from Going Snake District, he was also elected president of the Committee. In the organization of Colonel Stand Watie’s Cherokee Mounted Rifle Regiment, near Fort Wayne on July 12, 1861, for the Confederate service, Thomas Fox Taylor was elected lieutenant colonel of the regiment. Colonel Taylor and several of his command were killed in a skirmish between Confederate and Federal troops on Bayou Menard the morning of July 27, 1862. That he took an active and leading part in the Cherokee parties to California in 1850 is shown by frequentmention of his name in Brown’s journal, which bears out statements appearing in an old biography (O’Beirne, The Indian Territory: Its Chiefs, Legislators and Leading Men. pp. 460-1): “Thomas Fox Taylor was not only a natural orator, but a brilliant wit, and the center of attraction wherever he went. He was a dashing officer, and invariably the leader when any adventure or enterprise was to be undertaken. Thomas Fox Taylor’s name will be long remembered among his people.” ⁸ Devereaux Jarrette Belle was the son of John and Charlotte Adair Bell. His sister, Sallie Caroline, was the wife of General Stand Watie. His nephew, Lucien B. (Hooley) Bell, took an active part in the affairs of the Indian Territory and held many positions of trust in the Cherokee Nation beginning with 1870. D. Jarrette Bell’s wife, Juliette Lewis Vann, was considered the most beautiful girl of her day in the Cherokee Nation. She accompanied him on the journey overland to California in 1850. One day his company met up with a band of Cheyenne Indians, whose chief was so impressed with Juliette’s beauty that he offered fifty ponies for her, wanting to buy her and make her his wife. The young husband refused of course, stating with emphasis that he would not trade his wife to anyone for any consideration.— Information from Mr. George W. (Dr. Emmet Starr’s History of the Cherokee Indians [The Warden Company, 1921] has been consulted for genealogical material in the footnotes of this article.) ⁹Camp 1st was just west of the present town of Adair, in Mayes County. ¹⁰Near Coody’s Bluff in Nowata County. ¹¹Camp 4 was on the waters of California Creek, Nowata County. The name of California Creek and that of its branch “ Mormon Creek,” are reminders of the days when the California emigrating parties and, also, some parties of Mormons, who passed through the Indian Territory in early times, traveled along the trail in this vicinity.

[Page 3] May 5th Traveled 15 miles and caught up with the com- (Camp 7) pany commanded by Clem McNair, a war party of Osages came into camp, causing great excitement.¹² " 6 our crowd o f 12 waggons Joined and were numbered into McNairs Company the company numbering 32 waggons travelled 10 miles. Left Tom Taylor and 5 men to wait for another crowd Camp 8--- " 7 Lay By all day— " 8 Traveled 10 miles, camped [?] By a spring of very cold [?] Camp 9th

Page 3 Annotation ¹²Captain Clement Vann McNair’s party had been at this point for some days awaiting the arrival of other emigrating companies expected up the trail from the Grand Saline. (Information from Dr. Grant Foreman) Clement Vann McNair was the youngest child of David and Delilah Amelia Vann McNair. Mr. Benjamin Gold, the father of Mrs. Elias Boudinot, in writing his brother in New England (1829), told of visiting the home of David McNair when traveling through the Cherokee Nation now within the boundaries of the State of Georgia (Emmet Starr, Early History of the Cherokees, p. 109). Mr. Gold wrote, “ We then traveled twenty miles and came to a Mr. McNair’s, a white man who had married a Cherokee Indian woman, sister of Mr. Joseph Vann, another Cherokee chief. (Mr. Vann was not a chief, this was a common error with people that did not know.— Starr’s note.) He [McNair] had a beautiful white house, and about six or seven hundred acres of the best land you ever saw, and Negroes enough to tend it and clear as much more as he pleased. He raised this year about five thousand bushels of corn, and it would make you feel small to see his situation.” Clement Vann McNair was elected solicitor, or attorney, of Saline District by the Cherokee National Council in 1841-2. He was elected member of the Senate from Saline District for the term 1845-7. He served as delegate from the Cherokee Nation to Washington in 1846. His first wife was Susannah Martin, daughter of Judge John Martin, who was the first treasurer and later the first chief justice of the Cherokee Nation. His second wife was Mrs. Martha Ann (Childers) Smith whom he married in California. He never returned to the Cherokee Nation.

[Page 4] May 9th Traveled 20 miles Camp 10th on what was supposed to be waters of Arkansas River— The Company was joined on Thursday by, five waggons and 21 men, which [corner Journal " 10 Started after dinner and Traveled five miles Camp 11th— " 11 Traveled 18 miles. Crossed a creek about 12 oclock and camped at night on a large Creek, the Bottom of which was covered with walnut growth. Camp 12— " 9The Company was joined on Thursday by, five Capt C [?] waggons and 21 men, which [corner Journal worn] regimen sed the number of grew [corner Journal worn]

[Page 5] to 105 men, 15 negroes and 12 females all under the command of Clem McNair— May 12 Lay By (Sunday) " 13 Lay By " 14 Traveled about 15 miles crossed two creeks and camped at night on Shoavs’s Creek Camp 13th— " 15 Traveled all day without any timber in sight 20 miles and without any water until night [corner Journal worn] Camped at Evans old camp ground.¹³

Page 5 Annotation ¹³“ Captain L. Evans of Fayetteville, Arkansas, headed a party of forty wagons and one hundred and thirty persons from Washington County, Arkansas, and the Cherokee Nation April 20, 1849,” for California.— Foreman, Early Trails Through Oklahoma, op cit., p. 110.

[Page 6] used Buffalo Chips for wood, this is the place that Capt Evans called Buffalo Chip Camp Camp 14— May 16th Traveled all day No timber in sight yet. Made still using 15 miles Camped on a sluggish stream of very Buffalo chips cold water the same place that Evans camped at for wood Camp 15¹⁴ Great excitement in camp danger of dividing " 17 Today at 12 oclock Traveled 10 miles and came to the Santa fee Trail to Independence.¹⁵

Page 6 Annotations ¹⁴The organization of emigrant parties to California for protection, discipline and method in traveling was very important. Officers, consisting of a captain and, sometimes, a first and a second lieutenant, were elected by the members of the party. The position of captain called for a man having courage, determination, patience and a knowledge of human nature, in addition to a thorough acquaintance with life on the frontier. The hardships encountered on the long journey across the continent often brought about discontent among his followers. Sometimes disputes and quarrels arose, with the various members taking sides, causing divisions of the party on the trail. Such divisions were attended by many dangers, for the guard of both parties was thus weakened and there was the possibility of shortage of food and supplies in the wilderness. ¹⁵At the fork with the Santa Fe Trail, Captain Evans had set up a large stone marked “ To Fayetteville, Ark., 300 miles—Capt. Evans’ Com’y, May 12, 1849.” —Foreman, op. cit. p. 111.

[Page 7] Traveled about 8 miles after entering the Trace and camped on a small stream of water, Turkey creek, still using Buffalo chips for wood Camp 16th This morning the company devided. part of the company, 19 waggons, started ahead, inde pendent of Clem McNairs, we passed them this evening about 2 miles it is said to be 175 miles from this place to Independence & five hundred and fifty miles to Santa fee— 18 miles today

[Page 8] May 18 Traveled 15 miles and camped on Little Arks, in sight of the other company, which is now commanded by J. H. W olff.¹⁶ Evans calls it 125 miles from this place to Fort Mann and 390 miles to Peueblo— Camp 17th " 19 Sunday. Lay Bye— " 20th Traveled 18 miles and camped on Cow Creek two waggons from the other train joined us this morning we number 20 Camp 18 waggons & one Carryall. Large heard o f Buffalo in sight today, the other train passed on ahead

Page 8 Annotation ¹⁶When he had departed for California, John H. Wolfe left his young wife, Elizabeth Saunders Wolfe, at home with their infant son, Richard Murrel. He said he was going to California in search of gold so that he would be able to give his young son every educational advantage. However, he was an old man when he came back to the Cherokee Nation on a visit, his first since leaving in 1850. In the meanwhile, Richard had grown up, married and had a family of his own. He had proven himself a young man of character and ability and was largely self-educated. He was elected to various offices of trust in the Cherokee Nation and served as delegate to Washington for four years. After visiting his son and old home, John H. Wolfe returned to California to look after some property interests there, but it was not long until he died and was buried in his adopted state.

[Page 9] May 21st Lay Bye all day ¹⁷ " 22 Traveled about 20 miles & camped on Wallnut Arks. River creek Camp 19 " 23 Lay Bye all day. Large heard of Buffalo & grass scarce " 24 Traveled 20 miles, passed pawnee Rock¹⁸ and Camp 20 " 25 camped on ash cr. grass bad—Traveled 18 miles, crossed Pawnee fork, quite a large stream with high Banks, camped on Arks River. Camp 21 " 26 (Sunday) Lay Bye all day. Captain T. F. Taylors com pany consisting of eight horse waggons came up with us today with the intention of joining us— [Note on left hand page, opposite page 9] Untill the awakening Trump of the Archangel Shall Summon them from a sleeping oblivion into the bright presence of our heavenly father—

Page 9 Annotations ¹⁷Crowded in the upper corner of the page above this entry in the journal appear the words “ Camp 19.” This was an evident error for the party were still in Camp 18, “ laying by,” on May 21. Brown corrected this in the entry for the following day, listing the next camp on Walnut Creek “Camp 19,” the party having traveled twenty miles on May 22. ¹⁸Pawnee Rock is in the southeastern part of Barton County, Kansas.

[Page 10] May 27 Lay Bye all day a Train of ox waggons, 20 waggons, came up this evening. A comp [?] were according to Evans 3 visited by 9 Arapahoes Indians who camped in sight— May 28 Traveled 15 miles and camped on the Ark-Riv. Camp 22— May 29 T. F. Taylors company was admited into McNairs co this morning an election was held for Lieutenants T. F. Taylor was elected first, and J. M. Reace second Lieutenant today we traveled 18 mile camped on the River Camp 23---

[Page 11] May 30th Traveled 25 miles, passed the Ruins of Ft. Mann¹⁹ and camped 2 miles above on the Bank of the River Camp 24th— May 31 camp 25 Traveled 25 miles, came to the crossing of the Santa fee Road Maj. FitzPatrick, Indian Agent,²⁰ was there paying out annuities to the different tribes— June 1st Started at 12 oclock and Traveled 10 miles. Camped on the Bank of the River Camp 26— June 2nd Traveled about 25 miles Camped on the River Sunday Camp 27 Today at noon T. J. Mims & Co. Caught up with the crowd 12 days from home

Page 11 Annotations ¹⁹About eight miles west of present Dodge City, Kansas, were the ruins, many years ago, of an old adobe fort called Fort Mann. It was also called Fort Atkinson.— Frank A. Blackmar, Kansas: A Cyclopedia of State History, Vol. I, pp. 667-8. ²⁰The meeting with Major Fitzpatrick occurred at the Lower Crossing of the Arkansas, near the present town of Cimarron, Gray County, Kansas. Here the Santa Fe Trail forked, one branch crossing the river and leading to the Southwest across the Panhandle of Oklahoma. This was known as the Cimarron route of the Santa Fe Trail. Brown’s party took the other branch of the Trail, following the Arkansas River on the north side to Bent’s Fort. Major Thomas Fitzpatrick was U. S. Indian Agent for the tribes living in the region of the Upper Platt and the Upper Arkansas rivers. In February, 1850, he set out from Fort Laramie (Wyoming) to hold a series o f councils with the Indians. In May, he arrived at a point on the Arkansas, called the “ Big Timber,” where he met up with a large gathering of Indians, representatives from nearly every tribe of the Upper Arkansas, accompanied by a party of traders. Remaining here about a month, he then proceeded to the Lower Crossing of the Arkansas, where he held the council referred to in Brown’s journal. Mention of this meeting appears in Major Fitzpatrick’s report to the Superintendent of Indian Affairs, dated September 24, 1850, from St. Louis, as follows: “ I then continued down the Arkansas river [from the ‘Big Timber’] by slow and easy marches, in company with the traders and all the Indians, until we arrived at the crossing of the great Santa Fe thoroughfare. Here we made another halt until the 10th of June, on which day, after disbanding the Indians, and recommending each band to proceed to their own proper hunting grounds, I took my departure for this place. * * * The following are the names of the different tribes which assembled with me at the crossing of the Arkansas, all of whom seemingly entertain the best and most friendly feelings toward us: the Sioux, Cheyennes, Arripahoes, Kiawas, and Apaches. The Apaches here mentioned are not those of New Mexico which have been ravaging the country for years; they are a band of fifty lodges, that have for many years lived with the Kiawas and Co- manches, and have aided them in all their wars against both Mexicans and Americans. Those tribes herein mentioned are very formidable, and the most warlike on this continent, and occupy, indiscriminately, the country [including what is now Western Oklahoma], for several hundred miles, through which all the great thoroughfares to New Mexico, Oregon, and California pass.” The Co- manches had not attended the meeting, sending word that they feared the cholera raging the country at the time, and forwarding their expressions of friendship and good feeling toward the Americans.—Report of the Commissioner of Indian Affairs for 1850, pp. 52-3. Thomas Fitzpatrick’s career covered the period from the opening of the rich fur region west o f the Rocky Mountains in the early 1820’s to the beginning of regular settlement o f the Kansas-Nebraska country. A native of Ireland, born in 1799, he came to the United States at about the age of seventeen. One of a good family, with thorough schooling up to the time of his leaving home, together with a strong physique, an alert mind, and a talent for swiftly appraising a situation, distinguished him among the “ Mountain Men” of his time. As a trapper, trader, Indian fighter, head o f the Rocky Mountain Fur Company, guide, explorer, and Indian agent, his name may be counted among the first of the roster that listed such men as Kit Carson and James Bridger. From an accident with a rifle, Fitzpatrick’s left hand was maimed when still a young man. Afterward he was known on the frontier and among the Indians as “ Broken Hand.” In 1845, he was the official guide o f the expedition sent out by the Government, under the command o f Lieutenant James William Abert, to explore the country now included in the Panhandle of Oklahoma. This expedition is notable in Oklahoma history for being the first to travel overland from Bent’s Fort to the Canadian, thence down that stream to Fort Gibson with a train of wagons. The life of Thomas Fitzpatrick has been recounted in the biographical volume Broken Hand, by LeRoy R. Hafen and W. J. Ghent (The CTld West Publishing Company, Denver, 1931).

[Page 12] June 3rd Lay Bye (Monday)²¹ June 4 Traveled about 20 miles and camped on Bank of the River in a cottonwood grove, very hard rain Camp 28— June 5 Traveled 18 miles camped on the Bank of River Camp 29— June 6 Traveled 25 miles camped on the River. Camp 30th— June 7 Traveled 20 miles and camped on Bank of River Camp 31st— June 8 Traveled about 20 miles today, about 10 oclock passed a grave of Indians who fell in Battle sign posted 3/4 miles to the Camp 32 Right of the Road

Page 12 Annotation ²¹June 3 is the date that Brown wrote on the flyleaf of his journal. He must have turned back and written on the flyleaf on that date, since the first entry in the journal was dated April 20. Or, perhaps, he began his journal on June 3, taking time while the company “lay by” at Camp 27 to make the entries from memory or from notes kept elsewhere since leaving the Cherokee Nation. If he did begin his journal on June 3, had he purchased the little leather bound notebook from the traders who were with Major Fitzpatrick on the Arkansas? If so, this notebook itself has had a remarkable history.

[Page 13] June 9th Sunday Lay Bye part o f the day. Started 12 oclock and traveled 15 miles. Camped on the Bank of the River. Camp 33— June 10th this morning saw mountains at a great distance covered with snow supposed to be a spur of the Rocky Mountains, at the snow noon reached Bents Fort. Traveled on until night. Made 25 miles. Camped on the River. Camp 34—²² mountains that we saw today proved to be the Spanish Peak June 11th Traveled 25 miles Camped on the River Camp 35 — June 12th Today made 20 miles Camped on Bank of River high mountains to the left covered with snow Camp 36—

Page 13 Annotation ²²Bent’s Fort was on the north side of the Arkansas River, above the mouth of the Purgatory River, in Southeastern Colorado. It was founded in 1829 by William Bent and became a well-known establishment in the trade of the Santa Fe Trail. The route followed by Brown’s party via Brent’s Fort thence north through Colorado into Wyoming was an old Indian trail, used by early day trappers and traders in the Rocky Mountain region. The Spanish Peaks, in Southern Colorado, were noted landmarks, known by the Indians of that region as “ Wah- to-yah,” the Breasts of the World.— Hafen and Ghent, op. cit. p. 173.

[Page 14] June 13th today snow toped mountains in view plainly. Camp 37 Traveled 12 miles and at noon reached Peueblo found J. H. Woolfs company there preparing to “Pack” — June 14th Lay Bye all day. The ox Train consisting of 33 waggons came up and camped near, at night had a big Dance— June 15th Traveled North along the north Bank of a large Creek²³ which emptys into Ark R Below Peueblo. Left the Pack company preparing for Packing. Made 15 miles. Camp 38— June 16th Traveled along the creek 15 miles. Camp 39— today J.J. No buffalo since the 30th of May. Bear sign May of Cane Plenty. one killed today Hills, Arks quitt the pack Co--and joined my mess [Notes on the left hand page, opposite page 14] from Grand R 674 to Peueblo from Peueblo 499 to Green River ------ 1,173 from Green R 158 to Mormon City ------- 1,331 331 ------- 1,662

Page 14 Annotation ²³Fountain Creek, Colorado.

[Page 15] June 17 Traveled north, leaving the Creek. Traveled over Sand hills, pine Timber, passed Pikes Peak which is covered with snow, camped at cold spring of water— made today about 20 miles Camp 40th— ²⁴ June 18 Traveled 25 miles. Camped on a Bold Running, Clear stream of water, waters of the Platt. Good grass & wood Camp 41—²⁵ today we crossed the dividing ridge be- tween the Arks & Platt June 19 Continued down the above mentioned Creek 20 miles Good Grass, water & timber Camp 42— very hard storm this evening hale from the size of a Birds to a hens egg

Page 15 Annotations ²⁴Camp 40th was in the vicinity of the present city of Colorado Springs. ²⁵Cherry Creek, Colorado.

[Page 16] June 20th Took a left hand trail down the Creek, which was ten miles to- made by Capt Edmonson about two weeks ago. day about 10 oclock came to the South fork of Platt River. Made a Raft and commenced crossing the waggons, camped on the Bank of Platt. Camp 43—²⁶ June 21 finished crossing at 2 oclock left the Platt and raveled 6 miles to Creek Good water grass & timber Camp 44—²⁷ we called this Ralstons Creek be- cause a man of that name found gold her June 22 Lay Bye. Gold found. June 23 this morning all except 3 messes who traveled on concluded to stay and examine the Gold. Bell, Dobkins & R. J. Meigs traveled on

Page 16 Annotations ²⁶This crossing and Camp 43 were on the present site of Denver, Colorado. ²⁷The mention of the discovery of gold by a member of this party of Cherokees, on Ralston’s Creek (a branch of Gear Creek), is an interesting incident. Dr. Grace Raymond Hebard in Pathbreakers (Arthur H. Clark Co., 1933), p. 204, wrote that some Cherokees on their way home from California, in 1858, discovered gold on Cherry Creek. Colorado was practically an unknown country at that time. After returning to their nation the Cherokees organized a mining company and went back to the Rocky Mountains the same year to dig for gold. Soon afterward, numerous parties were formed by other prospectors for trips into the mountains, marking the beginning of the regular search for gold in Colorado.

[Page 17] June 24th Left Ralstons Greek and made 26 miles. Rainy & only 14 very mudy. Camped on creek plenty water, waggons wood, & grass Camp 45--- snow topped mountains in view today June 25 Traveled 16 miles and camped on a Creek, plenty good water, wood & grass Camp 46— June 26 Traveled 15 miles and came to a large Creek Black Tailed where we found the ox train and the horse wagons Deer killed that had left us preparing to “Raft.” good water, today Cashla wood & grass Camp 47— poodra

[Page 18] June 27 Lay Bye all day. finished a Raft— June 28 this morning Both Trains united and “Rafted” to- Cashe La gather. finished, and Camped on north Bank of Poudra River Clem McNair having resigned, T. F. Taylor the Lieutenant took command of the Co as Captain Camp 48— June 29 Early start. Traveled up north Bank of the Cashe La Poudra River 3 miles, when we left the River turned north into a Pass through the hills. 12 miles since morning and we came to a small creek the first water since Leaving the River. This evening passed

[Page 19] over rough Road. Camped²⁸ half a mile to the right of the road on a hill by the side of a large, steep Red Mt. after leaving the Road to Camp, we crossed Evans old Trace, which had just been passed over by Capt Olivers ox train, whom we left at the River Platt, and who had continued down that stream on Evans Trace. & we making a Cutoff being delayed at the Cashe La Poudra in crossing, he had got ahead of us. Made today 20 miles Camp 49 [Notes on left hand pages opposite pages 18 &19.] Sayings of the Boys while wrafting the Platt —-------------------------- No one speak but the Captain— Will you hold your tongue you scoundrel— hold on, pitch on to that raft fellows a dozen or two of you—push it off— now she rides— Let her swing— hold to the rope to the right you Rogues—Run out to the right with the rope— Cordelle there on the Left Rope, pitch ashore my lads— all Right— Let her come— now she Rides— Get off the Rope there Behind — I cant pull the Raft and you on the Rope. Get away Bill from behind, you’r so short, you pull down instead of along— who did that? There now the rope is Broke— Back she goes— pull her up — stop that fellows mouth and hear what the Captain says— I’ll spill you into the River the first thing you know----Look out I'll see if I can throw a rock over. who saw a Kan Kaven---he did? who killed a deer with a Black tail--- oh it was a sheep— no it was a Goat— No it was a “Donkey” — That was a good one by Gum— George pull my finger why didn’t they marry, now is the time to hold your tater— Into it Dugan— &e & c

Page 19 Annotation ²⁸The crossing of the Cache La Poudre River was in the vicinity of Fort Collins, Larimer County, Colorado. Camp 49 was in the neighborhood of the Virginia Dale. Captain John C. Fremont in his Report of an Exploring Expedition to the Rock Mountains, 1842-3-4, p. 122, described the country along this route. He wrote that after crossing the Cache La Poudre and entering a smoother country, his party “traveled along a kind of vallon, bounded on the right by red buttes and precipices * * "

[Page 20] June 30th Sunday. Traveled West today over tolerably wild sage good Road plent Water. Camped on a small Running stream foot of hills. high winds & cold. Made today 20 miles. Camp 50--- July 1st Entered the Larrima Plain. Left Evans Travce & following the Trace made by Edmonsons Co. which runs to the left of Evan’s— passed a large Lake, full of fish. Traveled across the L. Plains and Camped in a hollow, at a good spring— the ox Co’s near. Made today 25 Camp 51—

[Page 21] July 2 Crossed Larrima River. Struck into the hills. today we Pine & better Cottonwood timber. the Road has cross the wa- been opened by Edmonsons Co. hilly Country. ters of west Muddy, Boggy Road in the timber, which was Platt. Many very hard pulling for the Mules. Camped at foot cold springs of hill in a hollow. the ox Company's near. plenty timber and water. Grass scarce. Made miles 16 Camp 52— July 3 Traveled to the left through a pass. Entered a wild sage plain & turned to the Right down the North fork today there of the [22] Platt. Came to the crossing at noon.²⁹ was a R.M. found 2 small rafts which had been left by Ed- Goat killed. monsons Co. & the Pack Co. Home’s Co. took Ten miles to- the rafts and commenced crossing. Capt’s Tay- day lor & Oliver Joined their forces togather and built a Raft, we all camped on the River. Camp 53— July 4th Crossed the River and traveled 6 miles. Camped on small Branch. Water & grass, wild sage for fuel. Capt holmes Co. 4 miles ahead on creek, good water, grass, & wood about ten oclock

Page 21 Annotation ²⁹The pass was on the upper course of Pass Creek, a tributary of the North Platte, in Carbon County, Wyoming. In describing “ the pass of the Medicine Butte” (Ibid. p. 125), Captain Fremont said that here was a broad trail, leaving which he traveled “ over a plain on the west side of the pass, where the road was terribly rough with artemisia” and ravines, before arriving at a ford on the North Platte. Brown’s party crossed the North Platte near the mouth of Sage Creek. The Overland Mail Route to California crossed the river in this vicinity from 1861-69.— Hafen, op. cit., p. 231 and accompanying map.

[Page 23] tonight about 25 head of horses & mules, were I lost one stolen from our Co. by Indians, and 4 or 5 head horse & one from homes Co making 30 alltogather Camp 54 mule July 5 a Co of men under Capt Taylor went in pursuit of a Spanish the stolen horses. Our Train & that of Capt Oli- Boy was mis- vers which came up this morning moved on 4 taken for an miles to the creek where Capt homes company Indian to- were. Camp 55-- night and shot by one of the guards. his life if dis- paired of July 6 The Train Lay By all day— July 7 today the Train moved

[Page 24] on assisted by the Bad Travel- Ox Co and camped on the first large creek, which ing on ac- was called Eagle Creek. 20 miles, this evening count of wild Capt Taylors Co. returned without overtaking the sage “Rogues.” they found one horse, belonging to Capt Taylor, having been left or lost by the Indians. Camp 56— July 8 Today the two ox Co. and our Train move on to- very Bad gather. only ten horse teams, the rest ox, ours Road & Olivers train & traveled 20 miles, and Camped on small Branch 1/2 mile to the rite of the Road good water. grass & wood Capt homes Co moved father on ahead— Camp 57--

[Page 25] July 9 today at 10 oclock we crossed the dividing Ridge³⁰ very Bad between the waters of the Atlantic & Pacific Traveling on Oceans. Bad Road Traveled 20 miles, crossed account of Elk head creek, and camped on small branch tol- Bad Road & erable good grass Camp 58— wild sage July 10 Traveled 25 miles today without finding water untill night, when we camped on a Branch of Elk head creek.³¹ Very Bad Road. Grass scarce & water not good. Camp 59--

Page 25 Annotations ³⁰Bridger’s Pass, about twenty miles southwest of Rawlins, Wyoming.— J Cecil Alter, James Bridger, p . 224. The first notable expedition of traders and trappers that followed the trail west from the Cache La Poud revia the Laramie Plain, the North Fork of the Platte and the pass (af terward called Bridger’s Pass) was that of William Henry Ashley, in 1825. Thomas Fitzpatrick was one of the leading trappers of his party.--Hafen and Ghent, op. cit., p. 51. ³¹Elk Head Creek was a branch (possibly Muddy Creek) of what is now Little Snake River, in Southern Wyoming. Little Snake River is a tributary of the Yampa, in Northern Colorado. The stream called Elk Head Creek by Brown was evidently not the present Elk Head Creek, a branch of the Yampa show on present day maps, lying farther south in Colorado. Captain Fremont said (op. cit., p. 124) that the stream called Little Snake River by the trappers, of that time, was called "Yampah" by the Snake Indians. He preferred the Indian name and entered it on his map accompanying his reprot (q.v.) He indicated what is now Little Snake River as Elk Head Rive. "Yampah" was the name of a plant, the root of which was used for food by the Snake Indians. They resorted every year to the region of the Yampah or Little Snack River to gather the plant. For references in regard to the confusion of Elk Head, Little Snake, and Yampah rives, see Fremont, op. cit., p.280; also, Frederick S. Dellenbaugh, Fremont and '49 (G.P. Putnam's Sons, 1914), p. 274.

[Page 26] July 11th Today we had very good Road for a few miles and then the rest of the way, the worst Road that we have Traveled over since we left home. No water or Grass or Timber. The Road Dry & Dusty & pached. No game, Sage Grass scarce, at Sundown we reached the dry Bed of a large Creek where we got water by digging holes, the water tasted of Salaratas & salt. Grass scarce. Made today 20 miles— Camp 60— [Notes on left hand pages opposite pages 25 & 26] Graves we have passed since Intersecting the Independence Route 1. 2. J. A. Drake Died at this place July 15, 1850 3. Horatio Morse July 17, 1850 Marcy Co. Mo. 4. M. Harris died July 18, 1850, Franklin Co Dublin Ohio 5. A Grave on the left side of the road with some w riting on the head board, stating that he had been found by the road so [word illegible] that they could not ascertain who he was or where he was from— dated 19th July, 1850 & signed An Emigrating Company—

[Page 27] July 12 We traveled 5 miles and came to where Capt Home’s Co. were camped which was 1 1/2 miles from the Yamper River.³² A great Camp 61 many Indians were coming into camp as we got there which caused great excitement. They came up Friendly. The proved to be the Snake Indians. Capt Homes reported that he had been 8 or 10 miles and could find no water or grass, so we all concluded to stay where we were we carelled togather. [word illegible] carried our stock to the R to graze and packed water from the same place 1 1/2 miles

Page 27 Annotation ³²Undoubtedly what is now Little Snake River.

[Page 28] July 13 Traveled today 25 miles very Rough Road. No horses & ox- grass w ood or water. Traveled untill sometime en failing in the night when we came to Sulphur Springs. Not fit for man or Beast to drink. No grass July 14 Camp 62--- Traveled 5 miles and came to Salt water with lit- July 15 tle. grass. Camped. Camp 63--- Man & Beast sick. Caused by drinking the water that we have been drinking for several days Traveled today 20 miles and came to a narrow swift³³ Branch of good cold water with tolerable good grass Camp 64—

Page 28 Annotation ³³Bitter Creek, Western Wyoming. The rough dry country over which the party had traveled was the Red Desert. The route since leaving the North Platte via Bridger's Pass, Sulphur Spring, etc., wa approximately that of the Overland Mail in 1862--Hafen, op. cit., p. 231 and accompanying map; also, Grace Raymond Hebard and E.A. Brininstool, The Bozeman Trail (Arthur H. Clark Co., 1922) Vol. 1, pp. 71 and 120, and accompanying map.

[Page 29] July 16 Lay Bye— July 17 Traveled 20 miles over tolerable good Road. Camped in deep hollow on little Branch. Good grass. Sage for fuel Snow mountains in view on ahead Camp 65— July 18 Several cases of sickness in the Co. Very Rough Road Camp on Branch of Green River, one mile from the River Made today 20 miles wild sage as usual Camp 66—

[Page 30] July 19 Home’s Co moved 3 miles to the crossing of Green 2 miles to- River. Olivers & taylors Co. Camped along the day lay Bye River. Great many preparing to “pack” from this place Camp 67 499 miles from Peueblo to Green R This is the most desolate looking country that I ever saw. Since we crossed the deviding Ridge on the 9th the Ground has been dry & parched & very dusty. Salt water

[Page 31] Except now and then you find good water Grass very scarce. No game. Nothing much Except wild sage growing in this part of the Country Wild and Rugged hills (very Bad Roads)— June 20 Today Capt Home’s Co Rafted their waggons across the River. R. J. Meigs drowned one of his mules. — we lay Bye June 21 Capt Olivers Co— Rafted over the River. Taylors Co. not crossed but preparing to pack— lay Bye

[Page 32] July 22 This morning Capts Oliver & Home’s Comps Traveled on. Capt. Taylors Co. here yet. Expect to cross the River tomorrow lay Bye July 23 This morning we commenced crossing the River By Riding our horses and Carrying the Packs on our shoulders as the lay Bye water was very deep, by 12 oclock we were all safe across and camped on the west bank of Green River Camp 68—

[Note on left hand page opposite page 32] [Page 33] March 8, 1851 I owe J.B. Hunter $50 Green River is about [blank] yards wide, with numerous Islands upon which Good Grass Grows into which we drove our horses & mules The Timber is cottonwood & willow. The water of the River is good, though not so cold as that of the Platt or other Mountain Streams which we crossed. The country along the Banks of the River is very rugged, looks Dreary & Desolate, with high Bold Bluffs on the west Bank—

[Page 34] July 24 This morning about 10 oclock the Pack Co. left Green River and Traveled Due west over very desolate looking country, Snow topped Destitute of vegitation of any kind & water. Mountains After Traveling about 25 miles, we came to and camped on a small stream of Muddy & very Bad tasting water. Camp 69— near by July 25 Today we traveled over country the same as before Rugged & Rough. No grass Bad water, after Traveling about 12 miles

[Page 35] we came to a large creek of good water, with plenty good grass. We stopped for the day, Clem McNair being sick. Camp 70— July 26 Today we lay Bye McNair being unable to travel light showers, every day since we came to Green River July 27 After Traveling this morning about 8 miles we came to Bridgers Ft. on Black Fork of Green River.³⁴ At this 113 miles place from this place to the Salt Lake

Page 35 Annotation ³⁴Fort Bridger was founded by James Bridger, the noted trapper and trader in 1842. It was taken over my Mormons in 1854. The site was leased by the Government in 1857, the fort being rebuilt and regularly garrisoned from1858-90.--Alter, op. cit., pp. 170-8, 244-63, 295-328. Fort Hall was located in what is now Southeastern Idaho, east of the Snake River, on the Oregon Trail.

[Page 36] the Trace from Independence to the Salt Lake passes. a large Train of waggons were in sight bound for California. Snow moun- we were told by the Inhabitants at this place & also by Emegrants, that Thousands of persons were dying on the tains to the upper Rout which leads by Ft Hall of the Colara. we were also told that about 8 miles ahead, Olivers Co has camped & Left many one of the Cherokees belonging to the Train has died, they could not recollect his name, we traveled on, came to the grave springs of cold water 12 miles from Bridger

[Page 37] By the side of Road & found, by some writing on a board, that it was Charles McDaniel who had died, we traveled on a few miles father & camped 1/2 mile to the left of the left of the Road, good water & grass Made today 20 miles Camp 71— we find this Trace to be crowded with Emegrants to the Gold diggins. We are har[d]ly ever out of sight of waggons July 28 Traveled 30 miles today crossed Bear Creek at grave on the noon. Camped 1/2 mile to

[Page 38] Right of the Road Good water & grass. Camp 72— Bank J.A. we pass Graves, Dead cattle & horses almost every half mile— Drake July 29 today we struck into a Narrow valley, with high Rockey Bluffs on the right o f the Road and high hills on the left. Plenty of grass along the valley. Many springs of very cold water, we Traveled along the bank of a creek which runs through the valley, crossing it a Great many times³⁵

Page 38 Annotation ³⁵Echo Canyon and Red Fork Creek, Utah.

[Page 39] the Mormons at evening we came to Webbers River, quite a have a toll large stream, good water & timber, grass scarce. bridge on At this place the Road Forks. The left hand is a this road cutoff to Salt Lake. We took the right hand which leads down the River, 2 miles & camped having made 30 miles Camp 73-- July 30th This morning we traveled down the River 1 mile & a half, when the Road crosses Turns to the left into a narrow valley, at noon we came to a large creek along the [word illegible] which we Traveled

[Page 40] crossing very often. Late in the evening we reached the very steep top o f a very high ridge we traveled a few miles father and campe[d] 1/2 mile to the left of the Road in a hollow. Good water, Timber & grass. Made today 30 miles Camp 74—July 31 Traveled through deep winding hollow³⁶ at 12 oclock we reached the “ Mormon City.” 11 miles today to the City, we passed through the city, crossed the River Jordon one mile from town and camped on the River. Camp 75—

Page 40 Annotation ³⁶Emigration Canyon before reaching Salt Lake City, Utah. Captain Marcy wrote in 1859, "Forage can be purchased here, as well as most articles the traveler may require, at high prices. There is no camping place within two miles of the city. It is best for those who encamp with animals to cross the Jordon River, r stop near the mouth of the canyon before entering the city.” — Marcy, op. cit., p. 273

[Page 41] Aug 1st Traveled 13 miles to the first water which is a large spring of "water, which tastes a little salty, but is very good, plenty good from this grass, no timber. Camp 76 — place we took the cuttoff Rout Aug 2 Lay Bye Aug 3 Traveled by the edge of the Lake, passed many salt Springs at noon, 12 miles, we passed a mill belonging to the Mormons, at 3 oclock we came to good water & grass

[Note on left hand page opposite page 41] at this place [refer to note on Aug. 1] there are two Routs to the diggins, one called the Northern Rout, down the Humbolt River, another called the “Cutoff heretofore traveled only with Pack animals but this Season, the Emegrants are going it with their waggons.³⁷ about 80 miles from the city, there is said to be a Desert Destitute of water or grass 75 miles wide, and which is covered with hard crust of Saleratus, which a shower of ten min[u]tes duration will render it impassable, though it never rains

Page 41 Annotation ³⁷The Northern Route headed around the north end of Salt Lake, thence we stand south to the Humboldt or Mary's River in norther Nevada. The "Cutoff," the route followed by Brown's party, rounded the south end of lake, thence across the Salt Lake Desert west. It was approximately the same route traveled by the noted Donner Party that emigrated west in 1846-7.--- Eliza P. Donner Houghton, The Expedition of the Donner Party (Arthur H. Clark Co. 1920), pp. 34-35.

[Page 42] Willow where we camped Olivers & Homes, ox Trains camped near Made today 27 miles Camp 77— Spring Aug 4 This morning a man died in Capt Olivers Train (Palmer) We lay Bye today Aug 5 Traveled today 35 miles to good w ater and grass, found a great many emegrants here resting their horses & cattle, before Elbow entering the desert, also cutting grass to carry to feed their stock with Camp 78— Spring

[Page 43] Aug 6 Lay Bye. Resting stock today about 2 oclock Mr. R. J. Meigs was taken sick w ith the colera, and about 9 oclock same evening he died—³⁸ Aug 7 this morning we Buried Meigs, Runaway Tuff & Russell, the two last having died this morning, we moved two miles back among the hills and Lay Bye. Meigses waggon & other effects were taken charge of by Mr. John Clark, which was the request of the (Deceased) Camp 79

[Notes on left hand page opposite page 43] Aug. 6.— Dr. Barker of Missouri with eight men Joined our company which now consists of 53 persons— Dr. Barker attended Messers Meigs, Russell and Tuff during their sickness— Deaths Charles McDaniel— July 25 R. J. Meigs— August 6 Runaway Tough & Russell—Aug 7 Henry Street & Davis— Aug 17 G. M. Martin— Aug 17 Tolbert Bean— Sept 6th

[Notes on left hand page opposite page 44] Aug. (Aug. 8 at this place we enter the desert) it is 70 miles across it without Grass or water and persons crossing it will have to travel day and night to get across. Many persons have perished with their animals while crossing, perhaps we may find water sooner than we expect, as we have had several showers of rain for the last two or three days

Page 43 Annotation ³⁸Return Jonathan Meigs (5th) was the son of Timothy and Elizabeth Holt Meigs, daughter of a wealthy farmer from Virginia, who settled near Athens, Tennesse. Timothy Meigs was private secretary and confidential clerk to his father, Colonel Return Jonathan Meigs, soldier of the American Revolution and well known agent to the Cherokees from 1801-23. Timothy Meigs' family lived on a farm near Charleston, Tennesse. It was there that Return Jonathan Meigs (5th) was born on April 3, 1812. He married Jane Ross, daughter of Cheif John Ross, at Cleveland, Tennessee, and came to the Indian Territory with the chief's family in 1839. After arriving in their new home Mr. Meigs occupied a handsome bring home on the east side of the Illinois River not far from Park Hill. During the disorders in the Cherokee Nation that approached civil war, a party of Cherokees disguised as bandits came to his home November 2, 1845 and tried to kill him. Mr. Meigs and his family escaped but the attackers plundered and burned his home. Mr. and Mrs. Meigs's son, the venerable Return Robert, still lives at Park Hill. He remembers the morning his father set out from home for California. During the family prayer, just before his departure, Return Jonathan Meigs read the Thirty-seventh Psalm, his favorite scripture. Today, his son and his family love that Psalm and read it often. On the morning of August 6, 1850, when the emigrating party were "laying by" at the Elbow Springs, they spent some time cutting grass to feed their stock in the desert. Mr. Meigs complained of not feeling well and asked the men to let him help with the work among the first. After cutting his share of grass, he raked it up and carried into camp. By that time, he was very ill and lay down on the heap of grass to rest. Within a few minutes, he passed away, saying that all was well with him.---Information from Mrs. Jennie Matthews, of Park Hill, Oklahoma, daughter of Return Robert Meigs.

[Page 44] Aug 8 the company started this morning, we cut grass and filled our canteens with good water, which is said to be all the good water Sulphur we would get untill we crossed the Desert. We traveled untill Noon 15 miles when we came to Sulphur Spring, where we stoped Spring we found no grass here Jack Hilldebrand was taken very sick with the cholera. The company were detained waiting on him, and in consequence of the Sickness pervading in the company & apprehending more the Company deemed it proper

[Psge 45] to engage the Medical services of Dr. Barker though it was therefore agreed & stipulated that each member of the Company should pay the said Doct. on their arrival in the diggins or as soon after as possible the Sum of Five Dollars & he the said Doct. is to attend to all cases of sickness that may occur in the Company Camp 80— Aug 9 This morning Hildebrand was better though unable to travel on horseback, we therefore made

[Page 46] arrangements with J. M. Estell to haul him miles when we came to water where we stopped untill morning. No Grass Camp 84— Aug 14 Early start this morning Traveled about 15 miles and campe[d] on the side o f the mountains Good water, very good Grass. Camp 85— Aug 15 Lay Bye all day Aug 16 Started this morning and Traveled down the valley. at noon we came to tolerable good water & grass 18 miles, we stopped two branch run- hours & then to California also to haul B. F. Trott (who was also sick) across the Desert.³⁹ at this place the Desert commences it is 85 miles from this S--- Spring to where good water and grass is to be found. after making Suitable arrangements for the Sick of our Co--- at four oclock A.M. [P.M.] we started the Road passed over hills & through winding hollows for a few miles when it entered the Desert.

Page 46 Annotation ³⁹Mr. George Mayes of Oklahoma City, tells the following story: Ben Trott set out to California on a fine horse which he highly prized. One day the company came upon a large herd of buffalo. Ben Trott and some men started out on their horses on the run, planning to separate a bunch of buffalo cows and calves from the main herd and shoot come of the calves. Trott raced ahead of his companions. About that time, the buffaloes winded the hunters and began running away across the prairie, Trott right after them. Suddenly his horse stumbled and fell and sent him sprawling. The horse jumped up, ran off with the buffaloes and was never seen again. Trott jarred and mortified by the fall, just stood and wept as he watched his horse disappear in the distance, much to the amusement of the other hunters.

[Page 47] we traveled at the rate of four miles an hours. Good Road firm and hard. at two oclock in the morning we stopped to rest, & fed to the horses the grass which we had cut and packed since the morning of the 8th Slept, having made 40 miles. Camp 81 Aug 10 Started by sun rise having stopped about 3 hours to rest. We found (by daylight) the Desert to be covered with a hard crust resembling Salaratus, no grass or groath of any kind except wild sage now & then

[Page 48] A great many Dead horses, Cattle & dogs whichdied for want of water. These springs are called Relief Springs we Traveled Steadily, within 25 miles of the spring we came to where some Emegrants had waggons loaded with water which they had brought from the spring to sell to folks, as they came up they sold it for one dollar per gallon at four oclock this evening we reached the Springs having Traveled 45 miles since morning without stopping & without water for our horses. Good water & Grass. Camp 82 this evening a young man of Dr Barkers mess died of the Diarear

[Page 49] Aug 11 Davis a white man & Henry Street a Seneca today we lay Bye resting our horses, this morning G. M. Martin was taken very sick, about 12 oclock two men belonging to Capt Olivers train Died within a few minutes of each other and were both buried in one Grave today about 2 oclock G. M. Martin died.⁴⁰ after burying him the Co— removed up on to one of the Kanyons of the mountain about 3 miles distance. Good water & Grass. Camp 83— B. F. Trott came to us last evening quite unwell

Page 49 Annotation ⁴⁰George G. Martin was the son of Samuel Martin, a half-brother of Judge John Martin, first chief justice of the Cherokee Nation. Among the Cherokees of the emigrating party, in 1850, who helped to bury every person who died on the way to California, was Dennis W. Bushyhead. He remained in California until 1867. After returning to his old home, he was elected and served as chief of the Cherokee Nation (1879-86). His brother, Edward W., or Ned, Bushyhead had gone to California in 1849, settling finally at San Diego and never returning in live in the Cherokee Nation. He served at one time as chief of police in San Diego and also was elected sheriff of San Diego County. Mr. A. Taylor, of Muskogee tells of visiting Ned Bushyhead at his home in San Diego, in 1892. One day while watching a review of the U.S. fleet in San Diego Bay, Mr. Taylor remarked that the sight was the most wonderful he had ever witnessed. During the course of the conversation, Mr. Bushyhead said the most wonderful sight that he himself has ever witnessed had been during his journey overland to California in 1849. One day his party was traveling over a great desert when a terrible storm arose. It grew so dark and the wind blew such a hurricane that the train was forced to stop. It seemed as if the emigrants and their horses and wagons would be buried in the sand that whirled into drifts about them. In the midst of the storm an old Cherokee woman knelt down and began to pray in Cherokee. Ned Bushyhead listened closely, impressed with the fervor of her words seeking Divine aid in the danger that threatened. Suddenly the wind ceased. Then the darkness lifted as a shaft of light broke through the clouds and rested upon the bent shoulders of the old Cherokee woman kneeling on the desert. In a little while, the sand and dust in the air settled and the emigrants began their journey again over the trail to California.

[Page 50] Aug 12 today we lay Bye, waiting on C. V McNair, B. F. Trott & others who were too unwell to travel— Aug 13 35 miles since morning This morning several of our men being to weak to travel Dr. Barker and part of the Co— remained with them, and myself and the rest of the Co— traveled on about ten miles to a Spring of Good water, at this place, another Desert commences, which we had to travel During the night we remained at this place untill late in the evening when we started and

[Page 51] traveled on about 25 miles when we came to water where we stopped untill morning. No Grass Camp 84— Aug 14 Early start this morning Traveled about 15 miles and campe[d] on the side of the mountains Good water, very good Grass. Camp 85— Aug 15 Lay Bye all day Aug 16 branch run- ing east Started this morning and Traveled down the valley.⁴¹ at noon we came to tolerable good water & grass 18 miles, we stopped two hours & then

Page 51 Annotation ⁴¹After traveling through the mountains in what is now Eastern Navada, en route to California, the famous Donner party three years before had come to a beautiful valley, which they called “the Valley of Fifty Springs.” (Houghton, op. cit., p. 44.) Brown’s party was traveling in this same region. The bold running stream was a branch of the South Fork of the Humboldt River, Nevada.

[Page 52] Traveled due west, after traveling about 20 miles we came to wells o f water which had been dug in a wet ing east marshy Spot of ground. Bunch Grass. 38 miles since morning Camp 86— Aug 17 Early start. Traveled twenty miles due west Camped on a large Spring of Good water at the foot of the Mountain. Good Grass on the Branch Camp 87— Since Leaving the Elbow Spring the country is a perfect Desert. Except the places where we camped where we found water & grass

[Page 53] Aug 18 This morning our course was South for a few miles Then due west, at 2 oclock we came to good water and grass at the foot o f the Mountains 20 miles, we stoped at this place for the night Camp 88— Aug 19 after Traveling about two miles we passed a great many springs of hot water. We traveled along the foot of the mountains the sides of which were covered with green grass & the top with snow. Crossed many Branches of good, cold water con-

[Page 54] tinually & the valey covered with green grass, which to us is quite a “God-Send.” Camped on a bold Running Branch.” Large Cottonwood trees. Made today 25 miles. Camp 89— Aug 20 This morning a Seperation took place in the Company C. V . McNairs, May’s & Martins’ messes accompanied by Dr. Barker & his men seperated themselves from Capt Taylors Co— Capt Taylors Co — was joined by Dr Palmer & Eleven men, 33 persons altogather

[Page 55] we continued down the valley 25 miles. Many springs o f good water and plenty good grass. Camp 90— 1,662 miles from this place to Grand River Cherokee Nation— Lay by today 21st of August the Company being scarce of provisions, purchased 342 lbs of beef for which they had to pay 20 cts pr pound. Capt Oliver Camped near waiting on Arch Henry who is very unwell— Aug 22 proceeded on & came to a creek about noon where there was some white Emigrants who had lost their horses the night before stolen by Indians, thos. [Taylor’s?]

[Page 56] [Note top of page] continued down this creek Northwest ----------------- Company being informed of the fact six of our Company volunteered to go with the whites in pursuit of the Indians— The Company consisted of nineteen persons the command was given to our Captain— , the ballance of our Company proceeded & the volunteer Company to which I then belonged— took to the Mountains & after going some Eight miles found the Indians Encampment we succeeded in driving off five horses— the Indians numbered about one hundred—but our Company Escaped unhurt—not withstanding the

[Page 57] [Note top of page] Camp 91 to a fork of Ms R ----------------- Indians fired at us several times & shot at us with arrows as we made off with the horses the Company came on 11 miles & encamped on the same Creek those of us that pursued the Indians overtook the Main Company today at noon & the whole Co came on to this place 25 miles today on the same Creek— passed by dead body lying by the road side Em eg’s killed by the Indians Camp 92— 30 miles Aug 24 Continued down the same creek at noon we came

[Page 58] to a large stream o f water. Good grass this stream is a tributary of St continued Marys River.⁴² down the we traveled down this stream to St Marys River down which the Road from Ft Hall passes. The last ten miles of our road fork of M's passes through a narrow pass high bluffs on each side of the way very Rough & rugged 35 miles since morning Camp 93— R Aug 25 Traveled down the Valley of St Marys R— This R. is about 30 yrds wide. No timber except willow, bold rugged & steep hills

Page 58 Annotation ⁴²The St. Mary's or Mary's River was first named after Marie or Mary, the Shoshone Indian girl wife of a member of Peter S. Ogden's trapping and exploring party, in 1825. Some years afterward, it was called the Ogden River in honor of its discover. Still later, John C. Fremont named it the Humboldt, the name of which it is still known.--Hubert Howe Bandcroft, History of Nevada, Vol. XXV, pp. 36-7.

[Page 59] grass scarce on account of the Great emegration which has passed on ahead of us Camped on the River Made 20 miles today Camp 94— Aug 26 Continued down the River 25 miles. Camp 95— Aug 27 Made 30 miles today Camped on the River Camp 96— Aug 28 Camped on the River Made 25 miles today Camp 97— Aug 29 Camped on the R iter. Made today 25 miles. Camp 98— Aug 30th Lay Bye part of the day. Started at 11 oclock and made 20 miles, passed a dead Indian this evening

[Page 60] killed, as we heard, by some erne- grant while attempting to steal horses. Camped on the River. Camp 99— Aug 31st traveled 25 miles & camp on the River. Camp 100d— Sept. 1st Traveled 6 miles. Camped on the River. Camp 101--- Sept. 2 Traveled 30 miles today Camped on the River Camp 102— Sept. 3 Traveled 30 miles today Camped on the River Camp 102—⁴³ No bread Sept. 4th Traveled 20 miles (to the Sink of the River)— camped at a well.⁴⁴ Campe 103— Sept. 5th This morning we lay Bye grazing our horses as it is said to be 75 miles to the next grass. We have had no bread since Aug 28th. hardly any meat provisions scarce among the

Page 60 Annotations ⁴³The blurrs and blots that appear in the writing on pages 59 and 60, together with a number of corrections by crossing out figures and words, indicate the difficulty Brown had in keeping the journal at this time. No better explanation than the words "No Bread" in the date margin can be made for the error of his writing "Camp 102" twice in succession, after the party had traveled thirty miles both on the 2nd and the 3d of September. ⁴⁴Lassen’s Meadows. Captain Marcy (op. cit., p. 276.) wrote: "At the Big Meadows, 23 miles from the Sink of the Humboldt, travelers should make a halt of a day or two to rest and recruit their animals and to cut grass for crossing the desert at this is the last good camping place until reaching Carson River." The Meadows were like a great swamp or morass, pitted with deep water holes or natural wells. Emigrants pastured their stock and cut grass for forage on the dry spots of ground, that were said to cover about one thousand acres, scattered over the meadows.

[Page 61] Emegrants. No flour to be had for love or money we cut grass & packed it on our horses to feed to them on the Desert at four oclock this Evening we started. Continued down the waters of Marys River which at this place spreads out and resembles a large mill pond.⁴⁵ we crossed the River and traveled untill midnight when we stopped untill morning where we fed the grass to our horses which we had been packing for them. 25 miles—Camp 104— Aug 6 Early start this morning we found at daylight that we were near

Page 61 Annotation ⁴⁵The famous "Sink of the Humboldt," now called Humboldt Lake, in Western Nevada. The "Sink" or lake was about six miles long, that is from the north end to the point where the water of the river seemed to disappear in the desert. For the reason, early emigrants applied the name "sink" to this part of the river. It was forty miles across the desert to Carson River.

[Page 62] the last waters of the River fairly out on the Desert wrhich is sandy plain for which reason traveling over it is very slow. We suffered more crossing this Desert, than we had since leaving home, and we saw more property destroyed on this plain, Waggons, horses, mules, and cattle, than we had yet seen in crossing over the same number of miles about noon we passed C. V . McNair and Co. Talbert Bean was taken very sick early this morning and died this evening. Men dying almost every hour of the cholera about four oclock we reached Carsons Creek, where we found a great many traders from Sacramento City, with Flour

[Page 63] Bacon &c &c to sell to emegrants Great m any folks here.⁴⁶ great many dying. Camp 105— Sept. 7 today traveled up Carsons creek 12 miles and camped. T. F. Taylor drunk and not come to camp Camp 106— Carsons creek is about 15 or 20 yds wide with Aug 8 Today Traveled 5 miles and camped on the creek good grass in waiting for Taylor & others, who have not come the Bottoms, in yet. Camp 107— Large cot- tonwood trees and small willow on the Banks Aug 9 traveled 8 miles, and camped on the creek Several of our Co— sick, heard of Taylor and others being on ahead sick Camp 108—

Page 63 Annotation ⁴⁶The settlement that sprang up here was called Ragtown. The year 1850 was the worst in the period of the gold rush (1849-53). “So many oxen and horses perished in the fatal sink that the effluvia revived the cholera, and sent it to ravage the enfeebled crowds which escaped into the Sacramento Valley. Behind them on the plains were still thousands battling not alone with this and other scourges, but with famine and cold, for snow fell early and massed in heavy drifts. Tales of distress were brought by each arrival, told not in words only, but the blanched and haggard features, until California was filled with pity, and the government combined with the miners and other self-sacrificing men in efforts for relief. * * * Emaciated men, carrying infants crying for food stopped to feed on the putrefying carcasses lining the road, or to drink from alkaline pools, only to increase their misery, and finally end in suicide. ‘The suffering is unparalleled’ cry several journals in September, 1850, in their appeal for relief; nine-tenths of the emigrants were on foot, without food or money; not half of their oxen, nor one-fourth of their horses, survived to cross the mountains, and beyond the desert were still 20,000 souls, the greater part of whom were destitute.” —Hubert Howe Bancroft, History of California, Vol. VI, pp. 154-5.

[Page 64] Sept 10 Traveled 10 miles to where we found Taylor, our sick all Better Camped on the bank of the creek Camp 109--- Sept 11 Jonas (a black Boy) in my mess very sick also several of the Co-- Traveled today 3 miles & camped on the creek Camp 110 Rugged hills destitute of any growth whatever Page 12 Lay Bye on account of Sickness. A Peak of the Siera Nevada Mountains covered with Snow in view — Page 13 Lay Bye. Jonas not expected to live—

[Page 65] Sept 14 This morning about 10 oclock Jonas died & was buried about 12 oclock we started and traveled 8 miles up the creek. Camp 111— Sept 15 Continued up the Creek 30 miles today camped on a Spring branch, running from the mountains & emptying into the creek. Camp 112--- Sept 16 today we entered Carsons Valley, traveled along the foot of mountains on our right, the sides of which are covered with pine trees, & the tops spotted with snow

[Page 66] twenty miles very many springs of good water running from the mountains into the creek, also basins of warm & hot water the valley covered with good grass, we camped at the foot of the mountain on a bold & swift running stream of water. Camp 113— At this place, & up this Stream, there is a “pack Rout” across the mountains which is said to be the nearest though the roughest way, than the waggon Road today

[Page 67] Sept 17th continued along the foot of the Mountains 10 miles camped in bunch of timber to the left of the road Camp 114— Sept 18th This morning after Traveling eight miles we came to a large “Kanyon” very narrow rough, Rockey road, very rough for waggons. Steep rocky Mountains on each side, we traveled along up a clear, bold running Stream called “ Kanyon creek.” we passed through the Kanyon, seven miles and camped at the foot o f the hills 1/2 mile 115 Camp the moun- tains are cov- ered with large Pine trees.

[Page 68] to the right of the Road Grass very good. This evening T. F. Taylor & Mess, myself and Mess camped at this place waiting for Perry Brewer⁴⁷ who is with J. M. E still being too unwell to ride horseback. Estill not being expected to get through the kanyon untill tomorrow. Mays, A dair & Fields with their mess’s traveled on. Made today 15 miles Large Pine trees all up this Kanyon. Snow Peaks near on ahead— Sept 19 after traveling Seven miles this morning we reached the Base of the mountain, we reached the Summit of the first Ridge

Page 68 Annotation ⁴⁷Oliver Hazard Perry Brewer was a captain in Company C of Colonel Stand Watie’s Cherokee Mounted Rifle Regiment, in 1861. Mr. Brewer married Delilah Amelia Vann. Their son, O. H. P. Brewer, Jr., now of Muskogee, was elected a member of the Oklahoma Constitutional Convention in 1906.

[Page 69] over the worst Road that I ever traveled. Pack animals can hardly get up, much Less Loaded waggons, after reaching the Summit, we descended gradually, still over very rough road, a few miles, when we reach into a valley with a Lake in it. Many streams of water running from the Snows of the mountains into the Lake, we crossed the valley which is 1/2 a mile across and then began the ascent of the last Ridge, this mountain is higher than the other, though not so steep, nor the Road so Rockey. we had to pass over Snow, near the Summit, on reaching the Summit we caught up with Mays, Adair, & others.

[Page 70] immediately after reaching the Summit, we began to descend.⁴⁸ we traveled a left hand Pack Rout, which here leaves the waggon Road running round fifteen miles, and very rough road. camped on the side of the Mt. a Lake below. Good grass Made today 25 miles Camp 116— Sept. 20 Passed down by and partly around the Lake and up a very steep hill, when we intersected the waggon road, passed on a few miles father an camped [71] two miles to the left of the road. Made today 10 miles Camp 117— Sept 21st this morning it began to rain, and rained all day and night, we traveled slowly] Passed the Leak⁴⁹ Springs and came to "Camp Creek” where we camped, having made 15 miles today Camp 118— Sept 22 Cloudy & Rainy, we traveled down Camp creek half a mile, when we took to the hills again came to the Fork of the road.⁵⁰ Made today 15 miles

Page 70 Annotations ⁴⁸Carson Pass, in Eastern California, south of Lake Tahoe. The first Summit was said “ by old-timers to be the most dreaded 10,560 feet” of mountain road west of the Missouri River. The lake in the valley is called Twin Lakes, near Kirkwoods, California. With the crossing of the second Summit, the party had crossed the Sierra Nevada and were at last on the Pacific slope— Archer Butler Hulburt, Forty-Niners, (Little, Brown and Company, 1932) pp. 279-81. ⁴⁹Leak Spring, Eastern El Dorado County, California. ⁵⁰Right hand road led to Hangtown, now Placerville, California.

[Page 72] Camped 2 miles to to the right of the road Camp 119— Sept 23 this morning we found that four of my horses & one of Brewers had been stolen during the night. My packs were carried on by Mays & Adair, and we all walked. Came to Pleasant Valley Made today 10 miles Camp 120— Sept 24 we all walked to Ringgold & Weavervill⁵¹ made today 10 miles Camp 121— Sept 25 Lay Bye

Page 72 Annotation ⁵¹From information kindly supplied by Willard O. Waters, Bibliographer for Americana, Huntington Library and Art Gallery, San Marino, California, the places mentioned by Brown after leaving Leak Springs were in El Dorado County, California. Camp Creek was thirty miles east of Placerville. Pleasant Valley was ten miles southeast of Placerville. “ Ring Gold” was on the road from the latter place to the southern part of the County. Weaverville (or Weberville), the site of which has now “ reverted to wilderness,” was about five miles south of Coloma and two miles from Placerville. Weaverville, or Weberville, was one of the mining camps on Weber Creek, having been founded by Charles M. Weber in 1848.— Bancroft, History of California, op. citM p. 74; Hulburt, op. cit., p. 316; George Willis Read, A Pioneer of 1850. (Little, Brown, and Company, 1927), pp. 90 and 97 and index.

[Page 73] Sept 26 walked on to Lynches’ Trading house. Made today 10 miles Camp 122— Sept 27 Walked on to “Leapers Trading Post” 2 miles Camp 123— Sept 28 Moved up on to the head of Dead Mans Hollow.⁵² 5 miles Camp 124— Oct. 10 My Mess moved to the Arkansas Log Cabbin the Cherokees here are G. W . Adair & Mays and their Mess’s.⁵³ we commenced building Cabbins for the Winter

Page 73 Annotations ⁵²Dead Man’s Hollow was near El Dorado, California. ⁵³George Washington Adair was the son of Walter and Rachel Thompson Adair. He was a signer of the Treaty of New Echota in 1835, providing for the removal of his nation to the Indian Territory. Again in 1846, he signed the Cherokee treaty concluded at Washington, as a delegate of the “ Treaty Party.” In 1861, he was elected quartermaster of Colonel Stand Watie’s Cherokee Mounted Rifle Regiment. He died on April 22, 1862, and was succeeded by his son, Brice Martin Adair. Mr. G. W. Adair had married Martha Martin, oldest daughter of Judge John Martin, of the Cherokee Nation. Their oldest son was the brilliant William Penn Adair, colonel of the Second Cherokee Mounted Rifles and delegate from the Cherokee Nation to the Confederate Congress. Samuel Houston Mayes, Sr., was of English-Welsh descent and a native of Tennessee. His wife, Nancy Adair, was a sister of George W. Adair. Mr. Mayes was accompanied by his four oldest sons (George W., Sr., John, Frank, and James) to California in 1850, but remained only a few months. In the spring of 1851, he went back over the Cherokee Trail to California, taking with him a herd of two hundred cattle. He sold the most of them before he returned to the Cherokee Nation and left the rest with his son Frank to be sold. After selling his father’s cattle, the young man set out for home, but was robbed and killed on the way. Mr. S. Mayes’ oldest son, George W. Sr., had married Charlotte Bushyhead, sister of Dennis W. Bushyhead who went to California in 1850 (see footnote 40). It is to Mr. George W. Mayes, Jr., now of Oklahoma City, who was two years old when his father (George W. Sr.,) set out for the gold fields, that acknowledgment is due for much of the reminiscent and geneological material used in the footnotes of this article.

[Page 74] Nov 2 I and my mess moved into our Cabbins which was the first time that I slept in a house since the night of the 27 th of April— Nov 11 Adair & Mays & others commenced “ throwing up” dirt so as to be ready for the rainy season Nov 14 My mess commenced throwing up dirt at the same place with Adair & Mays — John A. Huffaker was taken sick with the Diarier

[Page 75] and died. Dec. 11⁵⁴ February 12, 1851

Page 75 Annotation ⁵⁴The following description in “ Forty-Niners” (Hulburt, op. cit., p. 284) tells of conditions among the California immigrants upon their arrival in the gold fields in 1849-53: “ Now, actually in the Diggings, what we do see—what is the impression? Whole mountains of dirt to be removed; hard labor of the stiffest kind known to man— shoveling. And for people in what condition, physically? The poorest imaginable. Even the healthy unfitted for such backbreaking labor during the first few weeks after their arrival in this climate; for fever and ague are to be met and mastered. But no great percentage of us are at all well. Monotonous diet, poor water, and the strain and stress of desert travel have left its mark on most; scurvy and diarrhea have undermined 50 per cent of us or more. For all these such work as shoveling dirt, sometimes waist deep in water, often knee deep, seldom if ever with dry feet, is a hazard that only one man in fifty assumes without being made ill within four days. We have seen sad sights all along this California Trail; but just momentary glimpses in these diggings have exhibited some just as sad—here, at the very goal!”