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Orange and yellow woven yarn sash / Unknown

Curatorial Remarks

This sash is an example of the oblique weaving pattern. The oblique weaving pattern is usually identified by the use of one color of yarn and the design being created through beads. It is strange that it does not have beads which means it may likely have symbolic use or is a ceremonial object. The lack of beads is a very intentional design. The oblique weaving pattern was used by Southeastern tribes but did not survive the Trail of Tears. After the Trail of Tears, the Cherokee started to primarily use the Osage finger weaving style instead (warp face). The oblique weaving pattern is still seen in the finger weaving of the Eastern Band of the Cherokee, the Seminole Tribe, and in Northeastern Tribes. The yarn of this piece is mainly 2 ply, but there are some strands, which all end in one of the fringe strands, that are 3 ply. This is likely a sash that would have been worn across the body. The fringe is too short to be tied. It is likely that it would have been attached with something else that would have been strung through the holes in the sash. This attachment would have likely been something that was embellished.

The yellow colored areas are created through a removal of dye. Tom Conde studied this technique and through experimentation was able to recreate what he believes to be the correct method. He refers to the technique as "resist" dying. In this technique, something is used to block the dye from penetrating predetermined areas of the object in order to create patterns through the un-dyed portions. It also appears that sometimes objects were somehow bleached to remove or lighten the main color of the yarn.

Karen Berry, Cherokee artist, 2019.

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Orange and yellow woven yarn sash
Native American; Sac & Fox
19th century - 20th century
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